Its the end of 2008 and the time of year may be making me a little reflective but added to the fact that I've not been able to surf now for almost 2 months has provoked a few thoughts.
A back problem has kept me out of the water since late Oct, which is the longest for me without a surf in recent memory and I'm amazed at how its affected my world view. I knew that I wouldn't be able to surf for a while so I cut myself off from surfing, cold turkey: no checking the surf reports, no daily scanning of the pressure charts, limited contact with surfing mates, no trips to the beach, no surf talk...all of which were designed to take my mind off waves, because the thought of clean, lined up northerly groundswells peeling across our local sandbars without me sat amongst them was and is too difficult to contemplate.
I thought I'd be able to handle the injury imposed surf sabbatical with a positive view that it wont be forever, but my protective withdrawal from all things surf has taken its toll. Theres the obvious "lack of surf blues", but the way I live has also been affected.
Surfing fitted into my pattern of work, family and friends and effortlessly dictated an understanding of changing weather systems, a healthy diet, fitness, outdoor living and more, but all of that has gradually eroded. Worst of all, the act of riding a wave, with the timeless glide across a glassy face is only a memory for now. Part of my life is missing
There is perhaps a danger of spouting cliches here but it is so true that its only until something is gone that you begin to truely appreciate it. Each wave we surf is a gift and the benefits surfing brings to our lifes is a blessing. I will surf again and I hopefully wont have to wait too long, but I do know that I'll never take a wave for granted again and will savour every fleeting second.
So heres to all of our blog readers, wishing you a very Happy, healthy 2009 and may the Surf God Huey bring us an abundance of waves!
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